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When curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end names. Yet, tucked high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.